Hokkaido Highway Blues

Author(s): Will Ferguson

Location(s): Japan

Genre(s): Travelogue

Era(s): Late 20th Century

Location

Content

There are two common starting points for travelogues. One is a desire to pursue ancestral roots. The other is a drunken bet. Hokkaido Highway Blues is the latter. After too much saké, Canadian travel writer and English teacher Will Ferguson finds himself following the Cherry Blossom Front, the route Japan’s celebrated pink sakura follows. It announces spring, flowering in a wave from the southern tip Cape Sata, through Kyushu, Honshu and Hokkaido islands, to Northern extremity Cape Soya.
Zen says that, “To travel is better than to arrive”. This is something people Ferguson encounters cannot comprehend. They offer to pay his train fare. People tell him the journey is impossible, since Japanese never pick-up hitchhikers. Naturally, they’re wrong. “When you are a hitchhiker, people spill their lives into your lap,” Ferguson says, “because the hitchhiker is a stranger, a fleeting guest, a temporary confidant”. He meets tens of fascinating characters, from priests to golf enthusiasts. Their stories are used to explore Japanese culture better than a guidebook, from Shinto to sea gods, pachinko to senpai/kohai (teacher/student roles).

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