Crime thriller set in AMSTERDAM
Authors on location – Eric Newby
21st December 2018
#AuthorsOnLocation – ERIC NEWBY
For some writers location is as integral to their story-telling as plot or character. TripFiction takes a look at some of these authors, for whom a sense of place has helped to define their literary output. For the thirteenth in the series we have chosen Eric Newby.
Born in 1919, Eric Newby was an adventurer and travel writer of renown, usually telling stories with great humour, self-deprecation and accompanied by his long-suffering wife Wanda, a Slovenian anti-fascist he met in the Apennine countryside of Italy whilst escaping from a POW camp during World War II.
In his earlier life, Eric Newby worked briefly in the advertising business, before being apprenticed on the Finnish windjammer Moshulu, and sailing from Australia to Europe in the ‘Grain Race.’ After the war, he worked for many years in the fashion business, before embracing a life of adventure travel and writing.
He died in 2006, aged 86, and here are just a few of the books he wrote about his memorable travel experiences.
A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush – travelogue set in Afghanistan and Eastern Europe
It was 1956, and Eric Newby was earning an improbable living in the chaotic family business of London haute couture. Pining for adventure, Newby sent his friend Hugh Carless the now-famous cable – CAN YOU TRAVEL NURISTAN JUNE? – setting in motion a legendary journey from Mayfair to Afghanistan, and the mountains of the Hindu Kush, north-east of Kabul.
Inexperienced and ill prepared (their preparations involved nothing more than some tips from a Welsh waitress), the amateurish rogues embark on a month of adventure and hardship in one of the most beautiful wildernesses on earth – a journey that adventurers with more experience and sense may never have undertaken.
With good humour, sharp wit and keen observation, the charming narrative style of ‘A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush’ would soon crystallise Newby’s reputation as one of the greatest travel writers of all time.
Slowly Down the Ganges – travelogue set in India
‘Slowly Down the Ganges’ is seen as a vintage Newby masterpiece, alongside ‘A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush’ and ‘Love and War in the Apennines’. Told with Newby’s self-deprecating humour and wry attention to detail, this is a classic of the genre and a window into an enchanting piece of history.
On his forty-forth birthday, Eric Newby sets out on an incredible journey: to travel the 1,200-mile length of India’s holy river. In a misguided attempt to keep him out of trouble, Wanda, his life-long travel companion and wife, is to be his fellow boatwoman. Their plan is to begin in the great plain of Hardwar and finish in the Bay of Bengal, but the journey almost immediately becomes markedly slower and more treacherous than either had imagined – running aground sixty-three times in the first six days.
Travelling in a variety of unstable boats, as well as by rail, bus and bullock cart, and resting at sandbanks and remote villages, the Newbys encounter engaging characters and glorious mishaps, including the non-existence of large-scale maps of the country, a realisation that questions of pure ‘logic’ cause grave offense and, on one occasion, the only person in sight for miles is an old man who is himself unsure where he is. Newby’s only consolation: on a river, if you go downstream, you’re sure to end up somewhere…
Love and War in the Apennines – memoirs and travelogue set in the Apennines, Italy
Hailed as Newby’s ‘masterpiece’, ‘Love and War in the Apennines’ is the gripping real-life story of Newby’s imprisonment and escape from an Italian prison camp during World War II.
After the Italian Armistice of 1943, Eric Newby escaped from the prison camp in which he’d been held for a year. He evaded the German army by hiding in the caves and forests of Fontanellato, in Italy’s Po Valley. Against this picturesque backdrop, he was sheltered for three months by an informal network of Italian peasants, who fed, supported and nursed him, before his eventual recapture.
‘Love and War in the Apennines’ is Newby’s tribute to the selfless and courageous people who were to be his saviours and companions during this troubled time and of their bleak and unchanging way of life. Of the cast of idiosyncratic characters, most notable was the beautiful local girl on a bike who would teach him the language, and eventually help him escape; two years later they were married and would spend the rest of their lives as co-adventurers.
Part travelogue, part escape story and part romance, this is a mesmerising account of wisdom, courage, humour and adventure, and tells the story of the early life of a man who would become one of Britain’s best-loved literary adventurers.
The Big Red Train Ride – travelogue set in the USSR
The only continuous land route between Western Europe and the Pacific coast of the USSR, the Trans-Siberian Railway covers nearly a 100 degrees of longitude, seven time zones and 5900 miles in a journey lasting 192 hours and 35 minutes.
In 1977 Eric Newby set out with his wife, an official guide and a photographer to gather a wealth of irreverent and humorous detail about life in the USSR.
Round Ireland in Low Gear – travelogue set in Ireland
‘You’ve had some pretty crazy ideas in your life, Newby, but this is the craziest.’ Grandmother Wanda Newby was exasperated after continuous rain, snow, and gales that knocked from her bike. Twice.
To avoid other tourists, Eric Newby had decided that the depths of winter would be the very best time to explore Ireland by mountain bike. More astonishing still, he managed to persuade Wanda, his long-suffering wife and life-long co-traveller, to accompany him – mainly, she admitted, to ‘keep him out of trouble’. Lashed by winter storms, fuelled by Guinness and warmed by thermal underwear, their panniers laden with antique books on Ireland, the elderly adventurers cycle the highways and byways, encountering hospitable locals, swaying saints and ferocious dogs.
From the shores of Donegal to the holy mountains, Newby guides the reader on a tale of mishap and magic, all in his own peculiar style of humour and charm, relishing his never-ending curiosity of the world and his insatiable quest for adventure.
A Small Place in Italy – memoir set in Italy
This book is a lush and beautiful memoir of a very special house and a superb recreation of a bygone era.
In 1967, veteran travel writer Eric Newby and his heroic wife Wanda fulfiled their dream of a return to life in the Italian hills where they first met during World War II. But this fulfilment would not come easy. The dream materialised in the form of I Castagni (‘The Chestnuts’), a small, decrepit farmhouse with no roof, an abandoned septic tank and its own indigenous wildlife reluctant to give up their home. But in the foothills of the Apuan Alps on the border of Liguria and Northern Tuscany, this ramshackle house would soon become a hub of love, friendship and activity.
Whether recounting dangerous expeditions through Afghanistan or everyday life in a country house, Newby’s talent shines through as one of the foremost writers of the comic travel genre. Full of Newby’s sharp wit and good humour, ‘A Small Place’ in Italy returns, twenty years later, to the life of Newby’s much-cherished classic, Love and War in the Apennines. It lovingly recounts the quickly disappearing lifestyle of the idiosyncratic locals, and the enduring friendships they forge, whether sharing in growing their first wine harvest as novices or frying poisonous mushrooms for a feast.
A Traveller’s Life – memoirs and travelogue set around the world
A chronicle of travels, some homely some exotic, from the man who can make a schoolboy holiday in Swanage as colourful as a walk in the Hindu Kush.
Eric Newby’s life of travel began in 1919, on pram-ride adventures with his mother into the dark streets of Barnes and the chaotic jungles of Harrods, and progressed to solo, school-bound adventures around the slums of darkest Hammersmith. His interest piqued, Newby’s wanderlust snowballed, and his adventures multiplied, as he navigated the London sewer system, bicycled to Italy and meandered the wilds of New York’s Broadway. Whether travelling abroad as a high-fashion buyer for a British department store or for pure adventure as a travel writer, even when reluctantly participating in a tiger shoot in India, Newby chronicles his adventures with verve, humour and infectious enthusiasm.
After nine years as the travel editor for the Observer, Newby reluctantly gave up the post, eschewing the new form of human-as-freight travel. However, this change was certainly no pity for his readers, as the latter-day Newby continued on his unwavering quest for fascinating detail and adventure wherever he roamed, whether on two feet or two wheels. ‘A Traveller’s Life’ chronicles the incredible adventures of one of the best-loved tour guides in the history of travel writing.
Which is your favourite Eric Newby book? Which would you add to the books we’ve included above?
Andrew for the TripFiction team
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